Ely Roofers carries out lead flashing installation and repair for homeowners in Burwell, tackling the leaks that faulty or deteriorating lead work causes around chimneys, valleys and roof edges.
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Lead is one of the longest-lasting materials used on a roof, but it does not last forever without attention. When lead work starts to go wrong, the signs are often subtle at first - and by the time water appears on a ceiling, the damage behind the scenes can already be significant. Knowing what to look for early is the best way to keep repair costs manageable.
The most telling sign is a damp patch or stain on an internal ceiling or wall, particularly near a chimney breast or in a corner where a roof slope meets a wall. Water follows the path of least resistance, so the damp patch may appear some distance from the actual source of the leak. If you notice staining that appears after heavy rain or frost, lead work is one of the first things to investigate.
If you can safely view your roof from a window, loft hatch or ground level with binoculars, look for these indicators:
Any one of these is a reason to arrange a proper inspection. Lead work problems rarely resolve themselves and typically worsen through each winter.
Understanding why lead fails helps you ask better questions when getting the job looked at. There are several distinct causes, and the remedy differs for each.
Thermal movement. Lead expands and contracts with temperature changes. If it is fixed over too long a run without the correct expansion detail (called a roll or drip), the metal fatigues and cracks over time. This is one of the most common causes of splitting in older installations, particularly on south-facing roof slopes that see strong summer sun.
Mortar failure. The top edge of most flashings is fixed into a raked mortar joint called a raggle. When that mortar ages, it shrinks and cracks, allowing the lead to lift in wind and letting rain drive behind it. Repointing the raggle is part of a proper repair - not just pressing the lead back down.
Incorrect installation. Lead sheet comes in different codes (thicknesses). Code 4 and code 5 are the grades specified by British Standard for most residential flashing work. Thinner code 3 is sometimes used to cut costs but is more prone to early failure. Lead that has been dressed (shaped) carelessly, left with sharp bends that trap water, or lapped incorrectly will leak regardless of the grade used.
Age. Lead in good conditions can last several decades. But lead that was installed without the right fixings, without proper expansion details, or over a poorly prepared surface will fail much sooner. A roof that has had patchwork repairs over the years may have several different layers with incompatible details.
Physical damage. Foot traffic during maintenance, falling branches or displaced tiles can dent or pierce lead. Even a small puncture is enough to let water in.
Chimney stacks are the single most leak-prone feature on most older roofs. They penetrate the roof slope at an angle, they are exposed on all four sides, and they typically involve several separate pieces of lead - the apron at the front, the back gutter, the side (or soaker) flashings, and the step flashings. Each joint is a potential entry point for water.
A chimney that is no longer used for a fire or stove is sometimes capped or repointed at the top, but the flashings at the base still need to be watertight. Redundant chimneys that are left open to the weather at the base are a very common source of unexplained dampness in bedrooms and upper floors.
Lead valleys run in the angle between two roof slopes and carry a large volume of rainwater. A split or lifted valley allows water to get under the surrounding tiles or slates. Valley failures can be hard to spot visually because the lead is partly hidden by the tile edges on either side.
At flat roof edges and abutments - where a flat or low-pitch roof meets a wall - lead is used to form an upstand and weathering detail. If this lead is not properly fixed and dressed, it is lifted by wind pressure and water gets in at the back. This is a frequent cause of damp in kitchen and bathroom extensions.
A sound repair is not simply pressing old lead back into place and filling gaps with sealant. Sealant applied over failing lead is a temporary measure at best and tends to hide the problem for one or two winters before water finds another route in.
A proper repair means stripping out the failing section, cleaning the surface underneath, cutting and dressing new lead sheet to the correct code and dimensions, fixing it correctly with the right clips or tacks, and repointing the raggle with fresh mortar. If the existing lead is sound in other areas, it can be left. If the whole run is fatigued or incorrectly detailed, it is more cost-effective to replace it all in one visit than to carry out a series of patches.
Lead work should be dressed and fixed to British Standard, using code 4 or code 5 sheet as appropriate to the location and exposure.
If you have noticed a damp patch, spotted lifted flashing or had a roofer mention lead work during a tile repair, do not leave it over winter. Frost drives water deep into cracks and accelerates decay in the surrounding masonry and timbers. A relatively small lead repair, dealt with promptly, can prevent significantly larger costs in structural drying or timber treatment later.
To arrange a lead work inspection for your property in Burwell, call Ely Roofers and ask for a roof survey. We cover Burwell and the surrounding villages, including Ely itself.
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Call any time. Calls are answered day and night and passed straight to our roofers.
