If you are considering a new roof for your home in March, understanding exactly what the process involves helps you know what to expect and what to ask for at every stage.
A new roof is one of the largest single investments a homeowner will make. The final cost is important, but how the job is carried out determines whether the roof performs well for 30, 50 or more years, or whether problems show up within a few years. Knowing what a properly run roof replacement looks like gives you the tools to judge any roofer's approach and to spot shortcuts before they become your problem.
Below is a straightforward account of what a new roof installation involves, from the first look at the property through to clearing up and leaving the site tidy.
The process begins with a proper inspection - not a glance from the ground, and not just a look through the loft hatch. A roofer needs to get up onto the roof surface to assess it properly. From up there, they can check the condition of every tile or slate individually, look at how the ridge and hip tiles are bedded, examine the valleys, and assess the flashings around any chimney stacks or abutments.
Inside the loft, the inspection covers the rafters, the underside of the roof deck, the condition of the existing underlay, and any signs of dampness or rot in the timber. Wet patches on the rafters, darkened timber or a musty smell all point to moisture that has been entering for some time. These findings affect both what needs doing and how it should be priced.
Any roofer who quotes without physically going up onto the roof is working from incomplete information. That is a risk to you, not to them - unexpected discoveries mid-job are the most common source of disputes and additional charges.
Once the inspection is complete, the roofer should put together a written specification of the work. This is not just a price; it sets out exactly what is being done and what materials are being used. A clear specification should include:
If two quotes do not specify the same scope, you cannot meaningfully compare them on price. Ask each roofer to be specific. The cheapest quote on a like-for-like comparison may well be the right choice; the cheapest quote that omits underlay replacement, new battens and proper leadwork is a false economy.
Safe access to the roof requires scaffolding on most properties. This is not optional - working from ladders alone on a full roof strip and replacement is not safe and is not acceptable practice. Scaffolding is usually erected by a separate scaffolding company and is factored into the overall cost. Make sure the quote you receive includes scaffolding; some roofers quote the roof price separately and add scaffolding later.
Scaffolding on a standard two-storey house typically costs £700 to £1,500 depending on the size of the property and how long it needs to be in place. It needs to be in position before any roofing work begins, and it must not be struck until the roofer has finished and checked the work.
On the day work starts, the first task is stripping the existing covering back to the rafters. Old tiles or slates are removed and lowered down - ideally using a chute or hoist to protect the property and garden below. Loose material falling from a roof height causes damage and creates a safety hazard; a well-organised site manages this from the outset.
Once stripped, the old underlay and battens are removed. This is the point at which the true condition of the timber structure becomes visible. Any rafters that are soft, split or structurally compromised need to be repaired or sistered before the new covering goes on. This is not an optional extra - a new roof laid on a weakened structure will have problems sooner or later.
Old tiles and timber are loaded out and removed from site. This should be included in the quote; if disposal is not mentioned, ask about it specifically.
With the structure exposed, any necessary timber repairs are carried out. This may mean replacing individual sections of rafter, fixing new noggings, or renewing the wall plates at the eaves. It is also the right time to address any ventilation issues - adding eaves vents or ridge ventilation if the existing arrangement is inadequate. Inadequate ventilation leads to condensation in the roof void, which causes rot in the timbers and eventually in the covering above it.
Previous repair work is sometimes done poorly. Any faults found need to be put right before the new covering is laid.
Modern breathable roofing membrane is laid from the eaves up, lapped and fixed correctly at every course. Unlike the old bituminous felt, breathable underlay allows moisture vapour to pass out of the roof structure while preventing liquid water from entering. It is standard practice on a new installation and should always be included.
New treated timber battens are fixed over the underlay to carry the tiles or slates. Batten size is determined by the tile weight and the rafter spacing; using undersized battens is a shortcut that reduces the integrity of the fixing. Treated timber is essential - untreated battens in a moist roof environment will deteriorate far sooner than they should.
Tiling or slating begins at the eaves and works upward. Each course is fixed to the battens at the correct gauge - the exposure of each tile or slate is set according to the manufacturer's specification for that material and the pitch of the roof. Getting this right ensures the roof sheds water correctly at every point.
Ridge tiles are the last to go on. Traditionally bedded in mortar, many installations now use a dry-fix ridge system with mechanical fixings and a ventilation strip. Dry-fix ridge systems are more resistant to frost and thermal movement than mortar-bedded ridges, which can crack and lift over time. Both approaches are used; ask which is being specified and why.
Hip tiles on hipped roofs are similarly fixed and need careful mitring and bedding to sit correctly. Hip irons at the base of each hip give added security.
With the covering laid, all flashings are installed. Lead is the preferred material for chimney flashings, stepped flashings at abutments and valley gutters. It is cut, dressed and fixed into the mortar joints of any brickwork, then pointed in with appropriate mortar or proprietary sealant. Lead is malleable enough to be dressed tight to any surface and durable enough to outlast the tiles around it when properly installed.
Valley gutters - the internal angles where two roof planes meet - are either formed as open lead valleys or as close-cut valleys using the tile material. Open lead valleys are straightforward and effective; close-cut valleys require precise cutting and fitting of the tile but give a neater appearance. Whichever is used, the valley must be wide enough to handle heavy rain without water backing up under the covering.
Chimney stacks should also be inspected at this stage and any cracked flaunching or failed pointing should be repaired. While scaffolding is in place is the most practical time to deal with chimney maintenance.
The roofline - fascias, soffits and guttering - is dealt with alongside or immediately after the covering work. Fascia boards carry the guttering and form the finished face at the eaves; when they are rotting, gutters cannot be properly secured and water finds its way into the wall. Soffits close the underside of the eaves overhang and are part of the ventilation path on a breathable roof.
UPVC replacements are standard on most projects. They do not rot, require no painting and are available in a range of profiles and colours. Guttering is re-run with correct falls to downpipes, all joints sealed and brackets fixed securely. A new roof with poorly performing guttering is not a finished job.
Once all the work is complete, a final check of the roof should be carried out - ideally from the scaffold before it is struck. Every ridge tile, every valley, every flashing and every section of guttering should be checked. Any gaps, loose fixings or improperly dressed lead should be corrected at this point.
The scaffold is then struck and removed. The site should be left clean - all debris, offcuts and packaging removed, gutters cleared of any tile dust or chippings that accumulated during the work, and the garden or driveway left as it was found.
Ask for confirmation in writing of what was installed - the tile or slate type, the underlay specification and the lead code used. This information is useful for any future insurance claims or when selling the property.
The cost of a new tiled roof depends on the size of the property, the materials chosen and the condition of the structure beneath. Natural slate sits at the upper end of the cost range. EPDM flat roof systems for extensions cost around £70 to £120 per square metre, installed. Scaffolding is additional if not included in the main quote. Timber repairs are priced once the roof is stripped and the extent of any damage is known.
How long does a new roof take to install? A standard two-storey house typically takes three to five working days for the roof covering, plus time for scaffolding erection and removal. More complex roofs or those needing significant timber repairs take longer.
Do I need planning permission? Like-for-like replacements generally do not need planning permission. If the property is listed or in a conservation area, check before any work begins.
What if the weather is bad during the job? A stripped roof must not be left exposed overnight without temporary protection. Competent roofers plan stripping in manageable sections and have materials ready to cover any exposed area at the end of each working day.
Should I be at home during the work? You do not need to be present throughout, but it is sensible to be available at the start of the job and to check progress each day. If anything unexpected is found, you should be informed before additional work is carried out.
We carry out new roof installations in March and across the surrounding area, including Littleport, Soham, Prickwillow, Ely and further afield. Call us for a roof survey and a clear, itemised quote before any commitment is made.
No obligation · We usually respond within 2 hours
Storm damage, active leak, damaged ridge - we aim to be on-site within 24 hours.
