Ely Roofers carries out roof repairs in March and the surrounding area, handling everything from slipped tiles and cracked flashing to flat roof patches and chimney stack repointing, with honest advice and no unnecessary upselling.
A roof problem rarely arrives at a convenient moment. Whether it is a leak that appears during heavy rain or tiles that have shifted after a windy night, the instinct is to do something straight away. This page covers what we repair, what you can reasonably do yourself while you wait for a roofer, and - just as importantly - what you should avoid doing, because the wrong intervention can make the original problem harder and more expensive to fix.
We carry out a wide range of roof repairs on residential properties in March and the nearby area. The most common types of work include:
A single tile or slate replacement is typically in the range of £150 to £350 depending on the tile type and how straightforward the access is. Repointing or re-bedding a ridge on a semi-detached or detached house usually falls between £200 and £600. Lead flashing repairs at a chimney stack are commonly priced between £250 and £600, though the price rises for larger or more complex stacks. Flat roof patch repairs on a small extension typically cost from £200 upward; a full re-felt over a larger area can run to £1,000 or more. These are indicative UK price ranges - the final cost depends on the materials required and what is found on inspection.
Like-for-like repairs - replacing like with like using the same materials - do not generally require planning permission. If your home is listed or within a conservation area, there can be restrictions on which materials are acceptable, and you should check with the local planning authority before work starts. Replacing natural slate with concrete tiles, for example, would not be permissible on a listed building without consent.
If you have an active leak or a damaged roof and there is a wait before someone can come out, there are a few practical steps worth taking inside the property. These will limit damage to ceilings, timbers and belongings without making the roofer's job harder when they arrive.
Place bowls, buckets or towels beneath any drip. If water is pooling on a ceiling and beginning to bulge the plaster, carefully pierce the lowest point of the bulge with a screwdriver or thin nail. This lets the water drain in a controlled stream rather than collapsing the plaster suddenly and dumping a much larger volume of water in one go. The plaster damage is already done at that point; letting the water out in a controlled way limits further harm.
If a leak is near stored items, furniture, electrics or anything valuable, move them out of the affected area. Water follows a path and the drip point can shift as the saturated area spreads. Do not wait until the drip reaches something you care about.
Take a few minutes to observe the pattern. Does the drip start immediately when it rains, or does it appear an hour or two into a shower? Does it get worse when rain comes from a particular direction? Does it appear even in dry weather after a very cold night? These details are useful to a roofer. A leak that appears only during driving rain from one side points toward a flashing or tile joint problem on that face of the roof. A drip that appears after frost without any rain may be condensation rather than a structural leak, which changes how it is treated.
If you can access the loft space safely, go in with a torch and look at the underside of the roof felt, the rafters and the ridge board. Wet patches or staining on the felt will often show you roughly where the water is entering, even if the visible drip inside the house is several metres away. Take a photo if you can - it helps when describing the situation over the phone.
From the pavement or garden, look at the roof carefully. Binoculars are useful. You are looking for tiles sitting at an angle to the surrounding ones, gaps in the ridge line, or pieces of mortar or broken tile on the ground below. If you can see something obviously displaced after a storm, let the roofer know before they arrive - it helps them bring the right materials.
This is the section most roofing websites leave out. There are things homeowners commonly attempt that either cause additional damage or make the roof harder to repair properly.
A domestic roof is not a safe working environment for someone without the right training and equipment. Tiles and slates can be slippery even when dry, and a single displaced tile can make the surrounding area unstable. Falls from roofs cause serious injuries every year. Even a one-storey flat roof is higher than it looks. If you can see a problem from the ground, note it and report it - do not climb up to investigate or attempt a temporary fix.
Aerosol expanding foam is sometimes used by homeowners to block what appears to be a gap in the roof or loft space. It does not bond to most roofing materials reliably, it is difficult to remove when the roofer arrives, and it frequently masks the actual entry point while leaving it open. The same applies to silicone sealant applied to tiles, flashing joints or chimney bases. Silicone can temporarily redirect water but it also traps moisture behind it, accelerates deterioration of the substrate, and makes it much harder to apply a proper repair. A roofer who arrives to find a repair covered in foam or silicone has to spend time removing it before they can assess what is actually wrong.
Roof coating products are sometimes sold as a quick fix for leaks. Brushing a sealant over tiles or mortar does not address the underlying cause, often traps moisture in the structure and can invalidate any material assessment a roofer later needs to make. If a tile is cracked, a coating over the top of it does not replace the tile. If mortar has failed, painting over it does not re-bond it.
If a large section of roof has been severely damaged - for example, after a tree strike - a tarpaulin can limit further water ingress while you wait for a roofer. However, a loose or improperly weighted tarpaulin that catches the wind can dislodge further tiles and cause additional damage. If you do use one, weigh it down at the edges carefully and keep it off the roof surface as much as possible rather than draped directly over tiles, which can cause them to slip further. This is a temporary measure only and does not replace getting a roofer on site promptly.
Where a repair is urgent - active water ingress, severely displaced tiles or storm damage that leaves the structure exposed - it is best to get someone out as quickly as possible. Call us and describe what you can see; we will advise over the phone on the most pressing steps and arrange to attend.
The most common signs are: damp patches or water stains on ceilings or upper walls; tiles or slates visible from the ground that are cracked, slipped or missing; pieces of mortar, ridge tile or broken tile on the ground below the roof; daylight visible in the loft when it should be dark; and gutters or downpipes that are pulling away from the fascia due to rot at the board behind them. Any of these is a reason to have the roof inspected.
Yes. We assess what is there regardless of who carried out previous work, explain our findings clearly, and carry out whatever repair is needed.
We carry out roof repairs across the area including Ely, Chatteris, Soham, Burwell, Haddenham, Witchford, Waterbeach and Cottenham. Call us to confirm coverage for your address.
If you have a roof problem in March and need someone to come and take a proper look, call us.
No obligation · We usually respond within 2 hours
Storm damage, active leak, damaged ridge - we aim to be on-site within 24 hours.
