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Roof Replacements in Chatteris

If you are facing a full roof replacement in Chatteris, understanding exactly what happens from the moment we arrive to the moment we leave helps you plan, ask the right questions and know whether the job has been done properly.

Roof Replacements · Chatteris

Expert Roof Replacements
in Chatteris

Why a Full Replacement Becomes Necessary

Roofs rarely fail all at once. What usually happens is a gradual accumulation of problems - slipped slates here, cracked ridge mortar there, a damp patch in the loft that keeps coming back - until repairs stop keeping pace with the deterioration. At that point, a full replacement is more cost-effective than patching indefinitely. The decision point is generally when the structure itself (battens, underlay, rafters) is compromised, or when more than a fifth of the tile or slate covering needs replacing at once.

A replacement properly done will address every layer of the roof, not just the visible covering. What follows is a plain account of how a well-run replacement job should proceed, from start to finish.

Step One: The Initial Inspection

Before any price is agreed, the roof needs a proper look - not just a glance from the pavement. A roofer should inspect from inside the loft as well as from the exterior. Inside the loft, the condition of the rafters, the ceiling joists, the existing underlay and the battens tells you far more than tiles alone. Look for daylight coming through, staining on the rafters (old or active leaks), sagging or bowed sections, and any previous repair work that may have masked deeper problems.

From outside, the slope is checked for uneven surfaces, broken or missing tiles, crumbling ridge mortar, the condition of lead or mortar flashings at chimneys and abutments, and the state of guttering and fascias. Any roofer who quotes without inspecting the loft interior is not giving you an accurate price.

Step Two: Agreeing the Specification

Once the full picture is known, the specification is agreed in writing before work begins. This should include the material being used, the underlay specification, how ridges and hips will be fixed (mechanical fixings rather than mortar-only is the current best practice), what happens to any rotten timber found, and how waste is managed. An agreed specification protects both sides - you know what you are paying for, and the roofer knows exactly what is expected.

Step Three: Scaffold and Access

A full roof replacement almost always requires scaffold. Working from ladders alone on a full strip and re-roof is not safe and does not allow materials to be handled properly. Scaffold is typically erected by a specialist contractor and costs are factored into the overall price. It should cover the full perimeter of the roof being replaced. Check that the scaffold is boarded and has proper edge protection - this protects both the workers and any passers-by below.

The scaffold will remain in place until the job is fully complete and signed off. Rushing its removal before all finishing work is done is a false economy.

Step Four: Stripping the Old Roof

Stripping begins at the ridge and works downward. Tiles or slates are removed, then the old battens and the original felt underlay underneath. This is the stage where hidden problems become visible. Rotten rafters, corroded nails, gaps in the structure - all of these are exposed once the covering is off.

Any rotten timber should be cut out and replaced at this stage. It is far cheaper to do it now than to strip the new covering in five years because rot was left in place underneath. Any new structural timber should be treated with preservative before the new underlay goes on.

Old materials are loaded into a skip or taken away during or directly after stripping. The area around the house needs to be kept clear of loose slates or tiles - both for safety and because sharp broken tiles can damage vehicles and injure people.

Step Five: Underlay and Battens

Modern breathable underlay (also called vapour-permeable membrane) is fitted directly over the rafters. Unlike the old black bitumen felt, breathable underlay allows moisture that enters the roof space to escape rather than condense and cause rot. Building regulations now require breathable underlay on new and replacement roofs in most circumstances.

Battens are then fixed horizontally across the rafters at a spacing calculated to suit the specific tile or slate being used. The gauge - the distance between battens - determines how much of each tile is exposed, and it must be correct for the pitch of the roof and the size of the covering material. Getting batten gauge wrong means tiles that are under-lapped, which allows wind-driven rain to penetrate.

Step Six: Laying the New Covering

Tiles or slates are fixed from the eaves upward. Every tile at the perimeter (verge, eaves and ridge) should be mechanically fixed. In areas exposed to wind, additional fixings are often required on field tiles too. Ridge and hip tiles are fitted last; best practice is to use a dry-fix ridge system with plastic clips and a ventilated ridge, rather than bedding everything in mortar. Mortar ridges eventually crack and lift; mechanical systems do not rely on mortar remaining sound.

Lead flashings at chimneys and abutments are cut and dressed into the masonry as the tile work progresses. Old mortar-only flashings should be replaced with proper code lead, which will outlast the rest of the roof if correctly installed.

Step Seven: Finishing and Check

Once the covering is complete, gutters and fascias are checked and refitted where necessary. Any mortar work around chimney stacks is pointed and tidied. The scaffold is inspected before removal to make sure nothing has been left dislodged or unsecured.

A final walk-round check should be done with the homeowner present. Look at the ridge line (should be straight), the tile or slate courses (should be level and even), the flashings (should be tight against the masonry with no open gaps), and the guttering (should be clear and correctly pitched). This is the right moment to raise any concerns, before the scaffold comes down.

Step Eight: Clean-up and Waste Removal

A replacement job generates a significant amount of debris - old tiles, broken slate, battens, old felt, fixings and mortar. All of it should leave the site cleanly. The driveway, garden and surroundings should be cleared of roofing debris, and any dust or grit washed from hard surfaces where needed. The skip or vehicle used for waste removal should not block access to neighbours for longer than necessary.

Questions Worth Asking Any Roofer

  • Will you inspect inside the loft before giving a price?
  • Does the price include treating or replacing any rotten timber found during the strip?
  • What underlay are you using, and is it breathable?
  • Are the ridges mechanically fixed or mortar-bedded?
  • Who arranges the scaffold and the skip, and are those costs included?
  • Will you walk me around the finished job before the scaffold comes down?

Planning Permission and Listed Buildings

A straight like-for-like replacement generally falls under permitted development and does not need planning permission. If the property is listed or in a conservation area, any change to the roof covering needs consent first. Always confirm this with the local planning authority before stripping begins - not after.

Covering Chatteris and Nearby Areas

We carry out full roof replacements in Chatteris and the surrounding area, including Ely, Haddenham, Downham, Over and the villages nearby. Call us to arrange a roof survey and talk through what your roof needs.

Why choose Ely Roofers?

  • Free survey and itemised quote
  • Fixed price - no surprises
  • Fully insured, local team

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